Grow taro root in water tub 1 year

Why This Method Works

For years, I’ve been experimenting with creative ways to bring more edible plants into my compact urban apartment. One method I've found consistently rewarding, especially for apartment dwellers with limited space, is to grow taro root in a water tub. This might sound a bit unconventional if you're used to traditional in-ground gardening, but trust me, it’s a game-changer. The beauty of cultivating taro in a water-filled tub lies in its mimicry of taro’s natural habitat – swampy, wet environments. This approach simplifies nutrient delivery, drastically reduces weeding, and provides a naturally resilient system against many common soil-borne pests and diseases. Furthermore, it leverages vertical space if you're able to stack or place your tubs strategically, and it ensures consistent moisture, which is often a challenge in container gardening, especially during hot summer months. The constant availability of water means less frequent watering from your end, freeing up time for other gardening tasks or just enjoying your green space.

What You'll Need

Container: Water Tub

• Size: For a successful one-year taro growth cycle, I recommend a sturdy plastic tub or stock tank with a minimum capacity of 20-30 gallons. A 20-inch diameter by 15-inch deep tub is a good starting point. Deeper is generally better to allow for good root development. Choose a dark color if possible, as it absorbs more solar energy, subtly warming the water – a plus for this tropical plant.
• Drainage: Crucially, there should be NO drainage holes. This is a true aquatic or semi-aquatic setup.

Growing System: Container Gardening

• Planting Medium: While we're growing in water, the taro corms still need something to anchor into and draw initial nutrients from before the water fertilization takes over. I use a mix of 50% coco coir and 50% compost. You’ll need enough to fill several small pots or planting pockets within your main tub.

Other Materials

• Taro Corms (Seed Taro): Look for fresh, unblemished taro corms at an Asian market or specialty nursery. Choose ones that show signs of "eyes" or small sprouting points. I usually buy 3-4 corms to ensure at least two good sprouts.
• Small Planting Pots: 6-8 inch diameter pots with drainage holes, one for each taro corm. These will be submerged in the main tub.
• Heavy Rocks or Bricks: To weight down the small planting pots and prevent them from floating.
• Dechlorinated Water: Tap water left out for 24-48 hours, or filtered water. Taro can be sensitive to chlorine.
• Aquatic Plant Fertilizer: A high-nitrogen, slow-release aquatic plant fertilizer. Follow package directions carefully.
• Stakes (Optional): If your taro gets particularly tall and leafy, stakes can offer support.
• Thermometer: To monitor water temperature.
• pH Testing Kit: To occasionally check water pH. Taro prefers slightly acidic to neutral (6.0-7.0).
• Sunlight: 6-8 hours of direct sunlight is ideal. A south-facing window or balcony is perfect.

For estimating how much coco coir and compost you might need for your smaller pots, remember you're only partially filling them. Check out our soil volume calculator to get a precise idea for your specific pot sizes.

Step-by-Step Guide

Days 1-3: Setup

1. Prepare the Corms: If your taro corms aren't already sprouting, you can encourage them by placing them in a shallow dish of water in a warm spot, just covering the bottom, or by planting them shallowly in a small pot of moist soil for a week or two until you see a shoot.
2. Prepare the Small Pots: Fill your 6-8 inch pots with the coco coir/compost mix. Plant one taro corm in each, with the growing tip (the sprout or the end where leaves emerge) just peeking out of the soil.
3. Submerge the Pots: Carefully place a heavy rock or brick in the bottom of your large tub. Then, place your small planted pots on top of the rock/brick. The goal is to elevate the pots slightly so their rims are just below the final water line, but the base of the pots is submerged.
4. Fill the Tub: Slowly fill the main tub with dechlorinated water until the water level is about 1-2 inches above the soil line in the small pots.
5. Placement: Position your tub in its final sunny location.

Days 4-7: Initial Growth

You should start to see new leaf growth emerging from the corms. Keep an eye on the water level. As plants establish, they'll draw water, and evaporation will occur.

• Troubleshooting: Yellowing Leaves: If early leaves yellow rapidly, it could be a sign of nutrient deficiency or water that's too cold. Ensure water temperature is consistently above 65°F (18°C). Introduce a very mild dose of aquatic plant fertilizer if water temperature isn't the issue.

Weeks 2-4: Rooting and Leaf Expansion

The taro will begin to send out more leaves and establish a robust root system within the small pots, extending into the main water reservoir. Maintain the water level by topping it off with dechlorinated water as needed. This is when I usually start my fertilizing regimen according to the aquatic fertilizer instructions, being cautious not to over-fertilize.

Months 2-6: Vigorous Growth & Corm Development

This is the prime growth period. Your taro plants will grow large, impressive leaves. New corms will start forming at the base of the plant, below the water line. Regularly check water levels and replenish. If you notice any algae growth, gently scoop it out. Consider a partial water change (25%) every 2-3 months to refresh nutrients and prevent buildup.

• Troubleshooting: Stunted Growth: This often points to insufficient light or nutrients. Ensure your plant is getting at least 6 hours of direct sun. Increase fertilizer dosage slightly if sunlight is adequate. Check water pH; if it's too far from 6.0-7.0, adjust accordingly with appropriate aquatic pH adjusters.

Months 7-10: Maturation and Corm Bulking

The taro plants will be quite large now. The energy from the leaves is primarily directed towards expanding the underground corms. Continue consistent water and nutrient management. You might notice some older leaves yellowing and dying back; this is normal. Simply prune them off at the base.

• Troubleshooting: Pests: While less common in water setups, aphids or spider mites can sometimes appear on leaves, especially in dry indoor air. A gentle spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil (ensure it's safe for edibles and aquatic environments if it drips into the water) can tackle them.

Months 11-12: Harvest Preparation & Harvest

As the one-year mark approaches, the leaves of your taro plant may start to naturally yellow and die back more significantly. This is a sign that the corms below are nearing maturity. You can often carefully feel around the base of the main plant for the developing corms (or "cormels" as the smaller ones are called). When around the 12-month mark, you can prepare for harvest. Gently tip the small pots out of the tub and carefully separate the corms from the roots and dead leaf stalks. You'll likely find a main corm and several smaller cormels. Store them in a cool, dry place, or replant some of the cormels to start a new cycle!

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Incorrect Water Level: Too little water exposes the roots, too much submerges the crown. The ideal is to have about 1-2 inches of water over the soil line in the small pots. I've personally had a batch suffer from drying out when I was inconsistent with topping up, leading to stunted plants.
2. Using Chlorinated Water: Chlorine can inhibit plant growth and harm beneficial microorganisms. Always use dechlorinated water. I learned this the hard way with some initial plants that just seemed to struggle no matter what; switching to left-out tap water made a noticeable difference.
3. Over-fertilizing: While taro is a heavy feeder, especially in an aquatic environment, too much fertilizer can lead to nutrient burn or excessive algae growth. Start with a lower dose than recommended and gradually increase if the plant shows signs of deficiency. I once caused an algae bloom that choked out my young plants by being too enthusiastic with nutrient additions.
4. Insufficient Sunlight: Taro is a tropical plant and thrives in bright, direct light. Low light results in leggy growth and smaller corms. If indoor light is an issue, consider supplemental grow lights. My first attempt had weak plants because they were in a slightly shaded window.

Pro Tips for Maximum Success

1. Start with Multiple Corms: Don't put all your eggs in one basket. By planting 3-4 corms, you increase your chances of success, and you might even get multiple healthy plants producing a larger harvest.
2. Rotate Your Tub: If your light source isn't perfectly even, occasionally rotate your tub to ensure all parts of the plant receive adequate sunlight, encouraging balanced growth. I do this weekly, even for setups near a large window.
3. Monitor Water Temperature: Aim for water temperatures between 68-85°F (20-30°C). In cooler climates or during winter, a small aquarium heater can give your taro a significant boost. I use a small, adjustable 50W aquarium heater in winter to keep my water tub consistently warm.
4. Companion Planting (Carefully): You can often grow other small aquatic plants in the tub alongside your taro, like water lettuce or even some watercress, provided they don't compete too aggressively for nutrients or sunlight. This can help natural water filtration and add to the aesthetic appeal.

Growing taro in a water tub for a year is an immensely satisfying journey, especially for those of us navigating the constraints of urban living. It turns a living space into a productive mini-farm. Don't hesitate – start yours today! And remember, for precise measurements and planning, always feel free to check out our free calculators, like the soil volume calculator or plant spacing calculator, at MicroGardenHacks. Happy growing!