Grow nasturtium in tin can for edible flowers 45 day

Why This Method Works

There's something incredibly satisfying about harvesting your own food, especially when you're working with limited space. That's why I'm so excited to share how to grow nasturtium in tin cans for a continuous supply of edible flowers and leaves, all within a neat 45-day cycle. This method is a game-changer for apartment dwellers or anyone with a tiny balcony. Nasturtiums are remarkably resilient and don't demand much root space, making them perfect candidates for upcycled containers like tin cans. Their vining habit can be easily managed with a bit of pruning, and the sheer volume of edible material they produce from such a small footprint is truly impressive. Plus, they’re beautiful, attracting beneficial pollinators if you have an exposed balcony. I've found that growing in individual cans gives you fantastic control over each plant's conditions, and it makes moving them around for optimal light incredibly easy. It’s a low-investment, high-reward gardening project that I wholeheartedly endorse.

What You'll Need

To get started on your 45-day nasturtium edible flower adventure, gather these essentials:

• Container: Tin Can (approximately 15 oz/425g size): Look for cans that held diced tomatoes, beans, or soup. These are usually around 4-5 inches tall and 3-4 inches in diameter, offering enough space for a single nasturtium plant without being too bulky. You’ll need to make at least 3-5 drainage holes in the bottom of each can using a hammer and nail or a drill with a small bit (1/4 inch works well). I usually go for five holes, evenly spaced.
• Growing System: Container Gardening with Drainage: This is simply growing individual plants in pots. The key here is excellent drainage, which your newly holed tin cans will provide.
• Nasturtium Seeds: I recommend 'Alaska Mix' for its variegated leaves and bright flowers, or 'Empress of India' for its deep red blooms and dark foliage. Both are compact varieties, which is ideal for cans. You'll only need 2-3 seeds per can.
• Potting Mix: A good quality, lightweight potting mix designed for containers is essential. Avoid heavy garden soil, as it compacts easily in pots and hinders drainage. My go-to is an organic potting mix with some perlite for aeration. For a 15 oz tin can, you'll need roughly 1.5 to 2 cups of potting mix. If you’re unsure about precise quantities for multiple cans, check out our soil volume calculator for precise measurements.
• Small Tray or Saucer: To catch excess water under each can, preventing water damage to your surfaces.
• Watering Can with a Fine Rose: For gentle, controlled watering, especially when seeds are germinating.
• Optional: Small Garden Trowel or Spoon: For scooping soil.
• Optional: Labeling Sticks and Marker: If you're growing multiple varieties or batches.

Step-by-Step Guide

Let's break down the 45-day journey to beautiful, edible nasturtium flowers and leaves.

Days 1-3: Setup and Sowing

• Prepare your Cans: Ensure your tin cans are clean and dry, with those essential drainage holes punched in the bottom. I usually give them a quick scrub with soap and water and let them air dry completely.
• Fill with Potting Mix: Fill each can to about 1 inch from the rim with your lightweight potting mix. Gently tap the can on your workspace a few times to settle the soil, but don't compact it too firmly.
• Sow Seeds: Nasturtium seeds are fairly large, so they're easy to handle. In each can, create two small depressions, about 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart, using your finger. Place one seed in each depression. Some people plant three, but I find two is plenty for a single can, and then you can thin out the weaker one later if both sprout.
• Cover and Water: Gently cover the seeds with about 1/2 inch of potting mix. Water thoroughly but gently until water drains from the bottom. This ensures good seed-to-soil contact. Place the cans on their trays in a spot that receives plenty of indirect light, and a consistent temperature of 60-70°F (15-21°C) is ideal for germination. I usually put mine on a windowsill that gets good morning light but isn't scorching hot.

Days 4-7: Initial Growth and Light

• Watch for Sprouts: Nasturtiums are usually quick germinators. You should see tiny seedlings emerging within 4 to 7 days, sometimes even sooner if conditions are perfect.
• Ensure Adequate Light: Once you see sprouts, it's crucial to give them as much direct sunlight as possible – at least 6 hours a day. If your windowsill isn't cutting it, consider supplementing with a grow light, or rotate the cans regularly to ensure even growth. Without enough light, they’ll become leggy and weak.
• Water Carefully: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Stick your finger about an inch into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water. Small containers like tin cans tend to dry out faster than larger pots.

Days 8-14: Thinning and Early Development

• Thin Seedlings: Once your seedlings have developed their first set of true leaves (the second set of leaves to appear, after the initial seed leaves), it's time to thin them. Choose the strongest, healthiest-looking seedling in each can and carefully snip the other at soil level with small scissors. Don't pull it out, as this can disturb the roots of your chosen plant.
• Monitor Watering and Light: Continue to provide plenty of sun and consistent moisture. At this stage, the plant is establishing its root system.

Days 15-30: Vegetative Growth and Pruning

• Growth Spurt: Your nasturtium plant will start to grow rapidly now, developing more leaves and potentially sending out its first short vines.
• Gentle Feeding (Optional): If your potting mix didn't contain extended-release fertilizer, you can begin feeding with a diluted liquid organic fertilizer (half strength) every two weeks. Look for one that's balanced or slightly higher in phosphorus for flower development. I've found a fish emulsion/seaweed blend works wonders here.
• First Pruning (for bushier growth): Around day 25-30, once the plant has 5-6 sets of true leaves, you can "pinch" back the main stem. Snip off the very tip of the main growing stem, just above a leaf node. This encourages the plant to branch out, creating a bushier plant with more flowering potential, rather than focusing all its energy on a single vine. This is a personal preference; if you like the vining look, you can skip this.
• Troubleshooting - Yellowing Leaves: If you notice lower leaves turning yellow, it could be overwatering (most common in cans) or lack of nitrogen. Check soil moisture first. If it's consistently moist despite good drainage, ease up on watering. If the soil is drying out adequately and still yellowing, consider a light dose of nitrogen-rich fertilizer.

Days 31-45: Budding, Flowering, and Harvesting

• Buds Appear: Around day 35-40, you should start seeing small flower buds forming amongst the leaves. This is an exciting time!
• First Blooms: By day 45, your nasturtiums should be proudly displaying their first vibrant, edible flowers. The leaves will also be a good size for harvesting.
• Harvesting: To harvest, simply snip off individual flowers or leaves at their stem with clean scissors. Pick the blooms as they open for the best flavor and to encourage more flowering. The young, tender leaves are also delicious and have a peppery kick. I love adding them to salads or garnishing dishes. Don't be shy; regular harvesting actually encourages the plant to produce more!
• Watering & Feeding: Continue regular watering and feeding. Nasturtiums are heavy feeders when flowering.
• Troubleshooting - Pests: Aphids can sometimes be an issue, especially on new growth. If you spot them, a strong spray of water or a dab with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol can usually dislodge them. For more persistent issues, a neem oil spray (following package instructions) is an organic solution.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even seasoned gardeners make mistakes, and I've certainly learned my share the hard way. Here are a few common pitfalls with nasturtiums in cans:

• Lack of Drainage Holes: This is probably the biggest killer. Without ample drainage, your nasturtium roots will sit in soggy soil, leading to root rot and a swift decline. Always check your cans have at least five good drainage holes. I’ve forgotten this once or twice in my eagerness, and it's always a sad outcome.
• Overwatering: While nasturtiums like consistent moisture, they hate wet feet. Small cans can trick you into thinking they need constant watering. Check the soil moisture by sticking your finger in about an inch deep. If it feels moist, wait. Daily watering without checking is a recipe for disaster.
• Insufficient Light: Nasturtiums are sun-lovers. If they don't get at least 6 hours of direct sun daily, they'll become leggy, pale, and produce very few (if any) flowers. I made this mistake early on, placing them on a shelf that got filtered light, thinking "some light is good enough." It wasn't. They looked sad and stretched. Find your sunniest spot!
• Neglecting Harvesting: It might seem counterintuitive, but if you don't harvest the flowers and leaves, the plant may slow down production. Nasturtiums are like many annuals: they put their energy into making seeds once they've flowered. By picking the blooms, you're signaling to the plant to keep producing more flowers.

Pro Tips for Maximum Success

• Rotate Your Cans Regularly: Even in a sunny window, light can be directional. Rotating your cans daily or every other day by a quarter turn ensures all sides of the plant get adequate light, promoting even growth and preventing leaning.
• Succession Planting: To ensure a continuous harvest beyond the initial 45 days, plant a new batch of nasturtium seeds in another set of cans every 2-3 weeks. This creates a rotating supply of youthful, productive plants. I usually have 3-4 cans in different stages of growth.
• Utilize the Vines: Nasturtiums are naturally vining. As they grow, you can gently guide their tendrils to twine around a small skewer or miniature trellis inserted into the can, or let them trail elegantly down your shelf. This adds a lovely aesthetic and keeps things tidy.
• Fertilize Organically: While not heavy feeders, a light dose of organic liquid fertilizer (like diluted fish emulsion or seaweed extract) every 2-3 weeks, especially once flowering begins, will keep your plants vibrant and productive. I always lean towards organic options for anything I'm going to eat.

There you have it! A comprehensive guide to growing your own delicious nasturtium edible flowers in recycled tin cans. This project is not only rewarding but also incredibly simple and perfect for compact spaces. Don't hesitate – grab some cans and seeds, and get started today! And remember, for any precise calculations on soil or spacing, our free soil volume calculator or plant spacing calculator are always there to help.