Grow taro in glass jar water roots 1 year

Why This Method Works

What You'll Need

• Container: Glass Jar: You’ll want a jar that’s at least 1 gallon (approximately 3.8 liters) in capacity, with a wide mouth. I've had great success with old pickle jars or large canning jars. The transparency is key, not just for aesthetic appeal, but also for monitoring root health and water levels.
• Growing System: Hydroponics: Strictly speaking, we're doing a simplified passive hydroponics system. No pumps or air stones are required for this method, which is ideal for beginners and small spaces.
• Taro Corm (or "seed potato"): Look for taro corms at Asian grocery stores. Choose one that’s firm, without any soft spots, and ideally already showing a tiny bud or "eye" at the top. This indicates it's ready to sprout.
• Distilled or Rainwater: Tap water can contain chlorine and other chemicals that might harm delicate roots. I always use distilled water or filtered rainwater for my hydroponic projects.
• Liquid Hydroponic Nutrient Solution: A balanced solution formulated for general vegetative growth. Look for one that provides a full spectrum of macro and micronutrients. I recommend a reputable brand like General Hydroponics FloraGro, FloraBloom, and FloraMicro system, or a single-part 'grow' formula. Follow the dilution instructions carefully.
• pH Testing Kit/Strips: Maintaining the correct pH (ideally between 5.5 and 6.5) is crucial for nutrient uptake.
• Small Stones or Pebbles (optional): These can provide stability for the taro corm and add to the aesthetic, but are not strictly necessary as the roots will anchor it eventually. Ensure they are clean and inert.
• A Warm, Bright Spot: Taro loves warmth and indirect bright light. A south-facing window with some sheer curtains, or a spot under a grow light, is perfect. While not directly relevant to hydroponics, if you were ever to transition your taro to a larger pot for soil cultivation, knowing how much space it would eventually need is crucial. Check out our plant spacing calculator for precise measurements if you're ever considering outdoor planting!

Step-by-Step Guide

Days 1-3: Setup

Upon acquiring your taro corm, give it a gentle rinse under cool water. If there are any dry, papery bits, you can carefully peel them away. Place the corm, bud-side up, into your clean glass jar. If using pebbles, arrange them around the base of the corm to keep it stable. Fill the jar with distilled or rainwater, ensuring that about one-third to half of the corm is submerged. The goal is to keep the bud above water to prevent rot, while encouraging roots to emerge from the submerged portion. Place the jar in its designated warm, bright spot. Avoid direct, scorching sunlight at this initial stage.

Days 4-7: Initial Growth

You might not see much above the waterline yet, but beneath the surface, the magic begins. Keep an eye on the water level and top it off with fresh distilled water as needed. I avoid adding nutrients at this very early stage; the corm has enough stored energy to kickstart root development. You might notice the water getting slightly cloudy, which is normal as the corm releases some starches. Resist the urge to change the water entirely unless it becomes particularly murky or develops an odor.

Weeks 2-4: Root Emergence and First Leaves

Around the two-week mark, you should start seeing tiny white rootlets emerging from the submerged part of the corm. This is exciting! Shortly after, a small green shoot will likely emerge from the "eye" at the top. Once you see significant root development (roots about 1-2 inches long) and the first leaf beginning to unfurl, it’s time to introduce the nutrient solution. I start with a very dilute solution – about 1/4 strength of the manufacturer's recommendation. Replace the water in the jar completely with this fresh nutrient solution. From now on, refresh the nutrient solution weekly. Each week, I increase the concentration slightly until I reach full strength around week 8-10, always monitoring the plant's response.

Months 2-6: Vigorous Growth and Regular Maintenance

Your taro will be growing rapidly during this period. You'll see more leaves emerge, growing larger and larger. The roots will fill the jar, forming a beautiful, dense network. Continue to change the full nutrient solution weekly, always checking the pH and adjusting it if necessary using pH up/down solutions. I find that during this phase, a careful pH balance (5.8-6.2) truly maximizes growth. Top off the jar with fresh, plain water daily or every other day as the plant transpires a lot. Ensure the plant is still receiving plenty of indirect bright light. Troubleshooting: If you notice yellowing leaves, it could be a sign of nutrient deficiency or incorrect pH. If roots appear slimy or brown, it might indicate insufficient oxygen or root rot; a complete water change and a slightly lighter nutrient solution can help.

Months 7-12: Maturation and Potential Corm Development

By now, your taro will be quite impressive, with large, lush leaves. You might even notice smaller corms beginning to form at the base of the main corm, within the root mass. Continue with the weekly nutrient solution changes and daily top-offs. The plant's water uptake will be significant, so don't skip those top-ups. At this stage, I often notice a slight slowdown in new leaf production as the plant focuses energy on developing its corms. Ensure the roots have enough space and aren't overly crowded; if they seem too dense, you might gently prune a few non-essential outer roots during your weekly water change, but be very cautious not to overdo it. The goal is to maintain a healthy balance. Your taro will continue to thrive and impress for an entire year, providing continuous beauty and even a potential small harvest.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using Unfiltered Tap Water Directly: The chlorine and chloramine in tap water can be detrimental to delicate root systems. It’s a slow killer, but it will stunt growth. Always use distilled, rainwater, or tap water that has been left out for 24 hours to allow chlorine to dissipate.
• Over-fertilizing in the Beginning: "If a little is good, a lot is better" is a dangerous mindset in hydroponics. Young roots are easily burned by excessive nutrient salts. Always start with a dilute solution and gradually increase. I've scorched many a tiny root system learning this lesson.
• Ignoring pH Levels: This is a silent killer. If the pH is too high or too low, even if all the nutrients are present, the plant simply can't absorb them. It leads to nutrient lockout. Regular pH testing (once a week during nutrient solution changes) is non-negotiable.
• Allowing Algae Growth: Light hitting nutrient-rich water is an invitation for algae. While some green film isn't usually fatal, heavy algae growth competes with your taro for nutrients and oxygen. You can mitigate this by covering the sides of your clear jar with a dark paper or cloth, leaving a strip open for viewing.

Pro Tips for Maximum Success

• Root Aeration (Passive): Even without an air pump, you can slightly aerate the water during your weekly changes. When you pour out the old solution and pour in the new, the disturbance introduces some oxygen. Additionally, leaving a small air gap between the water surface and the very top of the corm can help.
• Rotate Your Jar: To ensure even light exposure to all parts of the foliage and prevent the plant from leaning towards the light source, give your jar a quarter turn each week when you change the nutrient solution.
• Wipe Down Leaves Regularly: Dust can accumulate on the broad taro leaves, hindering photosynthesis. A gentle wipe with a damp cloth once a week keeps them clean and glossy. This also lets you inspect for any potential pests, though they are rare in a pure water system.
• Utilize Natural Light Fluctuations: While consistent light is good, plants also benefit from a natural day-night cycle. If using artificial grow lights, ensure they are on a timer for 12-14 hours on, 10-12 hours off. If using natural window light, positioning it to catch the morning sun but protect it from harsh afternoon glare can be ideal.